Rigatoni Toscano
This dish is inspired by a meal that I had a few years ago at Toscano, on Beacon Hill, in Boston. It is located on Charles Street, in one of the more charming sections of the city. If you’re ever in the area, you definitely should give it a try.
Although I never wrote them for the recipe, I just couldn’t stop thinking about it. I finally just tried to recreate it from memory and the list of ingredients on their menu. Don’t be deterred because it looks like a lot of ingredients, it really is quick to pull together. I also do recommend giving it some time to sit and let the flavors meld a bit. So, making the sauce in the morning or the day before works great. This is absolutely one of the best pasta dishes that I have ever made. A little hint, it’s the double smoked bacon that takes this over the top.
INGREDIENTS
4-5 oz. double smoked bacon, finely chopped (see notes below)
1/4 cup water
1 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbs. butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 Tbs. tomato paste
7-8 sage leaves, more for garnish
pinch crushed red pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. fresh ground pepper
28 oz. can whole tomatoes, crushed
1/4 cup heavy cream
fresh grated parmesan
finely chopped Italian parsley, for garnish
1 lb. rigatoni or other large tubular pasta
DIRECTIONS
First, put the bacon and water in a large sauté pan and bring to a slight boil. Using the water, before frying the bacon, helps to render the fat out of the bacon. When all of the water has evaporated, add the olive oil, butter and cook the bacon until just barely crispy. You want some bite to it, but not too crispy.
Then, add the onion, tomato paste, red pepper and sage; toss to combine, season with salt and pepper and cook until the onions are soft and translucent. Next, add the tomatoes and simmer for an additional 5-10 minutes. I prefer getting to this stage early in the day (or the day before) and letting the flavors blend and bit.
Then, when ready to serve, reheat the sauce, add the cream and simmer for a few minutes to heat through and incorporate the cream. Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to a boil, add a large pinch of salt to the water and add the pasta. Cook the pasta until just al dente, save a cup of the pasta water and then drain. Pour the drained pasta directly into the sauce and stir to coat well. Add some of the pasta water to loosen the sauce, mix well and simmer for a few minutes. Please don’t skip this step. By finishing the pasta in the pan, with the sauce, you get an incredibly silky sauce that coats the pasta beautifully. Additionally, bits of the sauce sneak into the rigatoni, so each bite has all you need. Add some grated parmesan, toss to coat and serve with a garnish of finely chopped fresh sage and Italian parsley. Serve with a good crusty bread, (like my sourdough) to sop up the sauce, a simple salad and you’ll be in heaven.
NOTES
The double smoked bacon can be a challenge to find, but it is absolutely worth seeking out. Many gourmet markets, like Whole Foods or produce markets, like Wilson Farm in Lexington, MA now carry it. When all else fails, you can certainly get it from Amazon.