Rigatoni Toscano

This dish is inspired by a meal that I had a few years ago at Toscano, on Beacon Hill, in Boston. It is located on Charles Street, in one of the more charming sections of the city. If you’re ever in the area, you definitely should give it a try.

Although I never wrote them for the recipe, I just couldn’t stop thinking about it. I finally just tried to recreate it from memory and the list of ingredients on their menu. Don’t be deterred because it looks like a lot of ingredients, it really is quick to pull together. I also do recommend giving it some time to sit and let the flavors meld a bit. So, making the sauce in the morning or the day before works great. This is absolutely one of the best pasta dishes that I have ever made. A little hint, it’s the double smoked bacon that takes this over the top.

INGREDIENTS
4-5 oz. double smoked bacon, finely chopped (see notes below)
1/4 cup water
1 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbs. butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 Tbs. tomato paste
7-8 sage leaves, more for garnish
pinch crushed red pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. fresh ground pepper
28 oz. can whole tomatoes, crushed
1/4 cup heavy cream
fresh grated parmesan
finely chopped Italian parsley, for garnish
1 lb. rigatoni or other large tubular pasta

DIRECTIONS
First, put the bacon and water in a large sauté pan and bring to a slight boil. Using the water, before frying the bacon, helps to render the fat out of the bacon. When all of the water has evaporated, add the olive oil, butter and cook the bacon until just barely crispy. You want some bite to it, but not too crispy.

Then, add the onion, tomato paste, red pepper and sage; toss to combine, season with salt and pepper and cook until the onions are soft and translucent. Next, add the tomatoes and simmer for an additional 5-10 minutes. I prefer getting to this stage early in the day (or the day before) and letting the flavors blend and bit.

Then, when ready to serve, reheat the sauce, add the cream and simmer for a few minutes to heat through and incorporate the cream. Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to a boil, add a large pinch of salt to the water and add the pasta. Cook the pasta until just al dente, save a cup of the pasta water and then drain. Pour the drained pasta directly into the sauce and stir to coat well. Add some of the pasta water to loosen the sauce, mix well and simmer for a few minutes. Please don’t skip this step. By finishing the pasta in the pan, with the sauce, you get an incredibly silky sauce that coats the pasta beautifully. Additionally, bits of the sauce sneak into the rigatoni, so each bite has all you need. Add some grated parmesan, toss to coat and serve with a garnish of finely chopped fresh sage and Italian parsley. Serve with a good crusty bread, (like my sourdough) to sop up the sauce, a simple salad and you’ll be in heaven.

NOTES
The double smoked bacon can be a challenge to find, but it is absolutely worth seeking out. Many gourmet markets, like Whole Foods or produce markets, like Wilson Farm in Lexington, MA now carry it. When all else fails, you can certainly get it from Amazon.




Basil Mint Pasta Salad

Yes, yes, I know pasta salad has been done a million times, however this is a different take on the boring, generic pasta salad that we’ve come to loathe. I use a basil, mint pesto as the base for this dish and once you have some on hand (and I definitely recommend that you do, especially in the summer), you can pull this together in no time. There is wonderful flavor and texture in every bite and it’s even better the next day.

Feel free to vary the ingredients to your liking and use what you have on hand. Given that it has mint, tomatoes, kalamata olive, pine nuts and feta, I would say that it’s a loose adaption of a greek pasta salad. I have not given specific amounts here, because you can be very flexible with this. Personal preference and availability of ingredients definitely play a big part in pulling this together. Don’t be afraid to add more of those things you love or have an abundance of. Alternatively, if you don’t like a certain ingredient, then just leave that out.

INGREDIENTS
basil mint pesto
extra virgin olive oil
1 lb. mini farfalle pasta or other small pasta, see note below
cherry tomatoes, halved
kalamata olives, pitted, sliced in half
toasted pine nuts
kosher salt & fresh ground pepper
feta cheese, crumbled or cubed
fresh basil & mint, julienned

DIRECTIONS
First, cook the pasta, according to the package directions and be careful not to overcook it. No one likes a mushy pasta. Meanwhile, if you don’t already have some on hand, make the basil mint pesto, which should only take about 8-10 minutes.

Next, drain the pasta and while still warm, add some of the pesto and stir to combine. Again, no specific amount; if you like a stronger flavor, add more, but taste as you go. I often add a drizzle of olive oil and a bit of the olive brine for additional flavor. Then, add the tomatoes, olives, pine nuts, stir to combine and season with salt and pepper. Remember, the feta is a bit salty, so be careful with your salt.

Finally, add the feta cheese, the julienned basil and the mint. If too dry, add another drizzle of the olive oil and/or another drizzle of the olive brine.

NOTES
I add the feta cheese at the very end, because I don’t want it to break down and get mushy. I also reserve some of the fresh herbs for sprinkling on top, just before serving. It’s not essential, but just makes for a prettier presentation.

A few great additions to this are, julienned red bell peppers, sliced scallions or sliced shallots. Another tasty option is a few sliced pepperoncini, and definitely feel free to add some of the brine from these as well, it all just adds up to more flavor.

Also, you can certainly vary the pasta shape to your liking or what you have on hand. Orecchiette is a definite favorite of mine because it has little pockets and they grab some of the ingredients, making for an even tastier bite. Another point, although I don’t give specific amounts here (other than the pasta), you do not need to buy multiples or large amounts of any one ingredient.




Macaroni and Cheese

Well, the temperature is dropping, the world is imploding and I don’t know about you, but I want some mac and cheese. Make that bacon mac and cheese! This is serious comfort food and I promise, it won’t disappoint. Now, it definitely won’t fix this crazy world, but it will make you feel just a little bit better.

INGREDIENTS
2 oz. smoked bacon
8 Tbs. butter, separated
6 Tbs. flour
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. fresh ground pepper
1 tsp. dry mustard
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
4 cups milk, warmed
7 oz. gruyere cheese, shredded
7 oz. sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
4 oz. fontina cheese, shredded
1 lb. macaroni of choice (I prefer cavatappi)
2-3 small tomatoes, sliced
1 cup panko crumbs
small handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped

DIRECTIONS
First, let me say that the cheese amounts and kinds of cheese are definitely flexible. Use what you have on hand. If you have more of one cheese than another, use it and don’t fuss over it. Everything will be fine and more importantly, it will be delicious. Additionally, the bacon is optional, however, if you do use it, I highly recommend a thick-cut. If using the thick-cut, you would use 2 slices.

Now, time to make the white sauce. Start by cooking the bacon, until crisp, then remove to a plate with paper towels, to drain. Set the bacon aside and once cooled, chop or crumble. If there is an abundance of bacon fat, do pour that off, you only need a small coating left in the pan. Then, using that same pan, over medium heat, melt 6 tablespoons of the butter and add the flour. Continuously stir for two to three minutes or until the flour turns a light golden brown. Then, add the salt, pepper, mustard, and nutmeg, continue stirring and cook for another minute.

Next, slowly add the warmed milk, while constantly whisking to prevent lumps from forming. Slow and steady is the way to go with this sauce. It doesn’t take long, but it does need attention, constant stirring for a few minutes to let the milk be incorporated and warm the mixture enough to start thickening. Then, add the cheese and do the same for a few minutes to allow the cheese to melt. It doesn’t need to fully melt, it will finish in the oven. Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to the directions, however just slightly undercook it. Have no fear, it will finish cooking in the oven.

Drain the pasta, add it to the sauce and add the bacon as well. Stir to combine well and then pour into a large, ovenproof casserole dish. Now, melt the last two tablespoons of butter, add to the panko crumbs, along with the parsley, a hefty pinch kosher salt, some fresh ground pepper and stir to fully combine. Then, slice the tomatoes and place them in an overlapping row down the middle of the casserole. Finally, sprinkle the crumb mixture over the tomatoes and macaroni. Bake in the oven for about 35-40 minutes or until bubbly and the crumbs are golden brown.

NOTES
Alternatively, you could use individual gratin dishes instead of a large casserole, as in my picture above. This is a nice presentation, especially if you’re making it for company. Although the tomatoes are a yummy touch, omit them if you wish. Also, feel free to omit the bacon if it feels too rich. However, I do think you should try it with the bacon and the tomatoes at least once!




Spicy Sesame Noodles

Looking for a quick and tasty side dish for your next gathering? Try this dish for a departure from the usual sides. It is extremely quick, incredibly tasty, always a big hit and it only gets better the next day. Additionally, the ingredients are mostly shelf stable, which makes them wonderful items to keep in your pantry for a side dish on a moments notice.

1⁄4 cup soy sauce
3 Tbs. toasted sesame oil, Trader Joe’s has a good one
2 Tbs. red wine vinegar
1 1⁄2 Tbs. sugar
1 Tbs. chili garlic sauce*
1 lb. linguine
4 scallions, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, cut in match-stick strips

Combine the first five ingredients in a jar, shake to combine and set aside. This can be made a day ahead and refrigerated, which only enhances the flavors. Just remember to bring the sauce to room temperature before continuing.

When ready, cook the linguine, according to the package directions. Then, drain and briefly rinse under cool water to stop the cooking. Do not overcook the linguine, it should have a bit of bite to it. Then, transfer to a bowl and add the room temperature dressing. Hold some back to add just before serving, if needed. Finally, add the scallions and the red pepper strips, toss well to combine, sprinkle with a few more scallion pieces and serve, either at room temperature or chilled.

*Chili garlic sauce is available at Asian markets or in the international section of most supermarket.




Bolognese Ragu

This is a wonderful, authentic Italian bolognese sauce, adapted from a recipe by the legendary Marcella Hazan. This just might be the last bolognese recipe you will make, unless of course, you try my Bellagio Lasagne! Actually I prefer this recipe here, when serving with linguine or tagliatelle. However, when making lasagne, I prefer the Bellagio Ragu Sauce. You will just have to try both, decide for yourself and make sure to let me know.

INGREDIENTS
3 Tbs. olive oil
5 Tbs. butter
4 Tbs. each onion, carrot, celery, finely chopped
3/4 lb. lean ground beef
2 oz. pancetta, finely diced
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup whole milk
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
2 cups canned whole, peeled, San Marzano tomatoes, with their juices, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 lb. taglietelle, linguine or rigatoni

DIRECTIONS
First, heat the olive oil and 3 Tbs. of the butter in a Dutch oven over, medium-high heat. Then, add all of the onions and sauté, until they have turned a light golden color. Next, add the carrots and celery, and continue sautéing for an additional 5-10 minutes.

Then, add the pancetta and ground beef, breaking it up with a wooden spoon and sauté for a bit. When the meat is fully browned, add the wine and simmer, stirring occasionally, until it has totally evaporated. Add the milk and the nutmeg; continue to cook, occasionally stirring the sauce, until most of the milk has evaporated.

Finally, add the tomatoes and stir, once it comes to a boil, turn the heat to low. Simmer uncovered for two to three hours, stirring occasionally.

When ready to serve, reheat the sauce and cook the pasta in large pot of boiling, salted, water for about 10-12 minutes or until al dente. Make sure to check your package directions since the timing can differ significantly, from brand to brand. Drain the pasta and toss with the remaining butter. Then, add the sauce, toss to mix well and add the freshly grated cheese to taste.

NOTE:
Although very rare in my house, if you have any leftovers, this sauce freezes quite well.




Bellagio Lasagne Bolognese

So, where do I start with this recipe? We are in love with, some might say a bit obsessed with, bolognese sauce. Finding, trying, and tweaking new recipes that look promising. To date, my favorite, for serving with tagliatelle or linguine, is an adaption of Marcella Hazan’s Bolognese Sauce. Now, don’t get me wrong, that is still a definite favorite.

However, when we went to Italy and continued our search for bolognese perfection; literally ordering it in each new spot we visited. I even took a class in Bologna on how to make it. The next stop was Bellagio and voilà, perfection! At a spot fit for a king, we had a late lunch at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, overlooking Lake Como. Maybe it was the combination of the breathtaking setting or the late lunch. (Yes, I was starving and could have eaten anything and it would have tasted good). Regardless, one bite of this lasagne bolognese and I was done with my search. This was the most mouthwatering, delectable version I had ever eaten.

Bellagio
View from the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni

Totally smitten and unable to stop thinking about how incredible that dish was, I did what any crazed foodie would do…I went online and emailed the chef directly and begged, with all I could muster, for him to share the recipe. Guess what? It worked!

Interestingly, the return email was in English. Although, when I opened the recipe attachment, it was all in Italian. Yikes! Thank goodness for Google Translate. So, here it is, with some minor adaptions. I hope you try it and please let me know what you think.

Bellagio Bolognese Sauce
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, split
3-4 Tbs. butter, split
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 carrots, finely chopped
4 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 lb. ground beef or ground veal
1 lb. ground pork
1/4 lb. pancetta, finely chopped in food processor
1 cup of white wine (I typically use a chardonnay)
1 Tbs. tomato paste
7 oz. whole, peeled, canned San Marzano tomatoes, crushed
3/4 oz. dried mushrooms
kosher salt & fresh ground pepper
3-4 sprigs each of rosemary & sage
2 cloves garlic, smashed, not chopped
1 1/2 cups, freshly grated parmesan reggiano cheese, for assembly

DIRECTIONS
First, chop the onion, celery and carrots, sauté them with a little butter and a little olive oil. Then, add the meat and season with salt and pepper. Brown the meat until all the liquid evaporates. Then, add the white wine and simmer until that evaporates. Meanwhile, rehydrate the mushrooms, in a bowl, with about 1/2 cup of boiling water. Remove and drain, when they are totally soft, usually about 15-20 minutes and finely mince. Next, add the tomato paste, the tomatoes and the minced mushrooms..

bellagio bolognese

Simmer the sauce for about two hours, stirring occasionally. Then, take the remainder of the olive oil and sauté the rosemary, sage and garlic cloves for about 3-5 minutes, being careful not to brown the garlic. Remove and discard the herbs and garlic. Then, add the infused oil to the sauce. Stir to combine and remove from heat.

Bechamel Sauce
5 Tbs. butter
5 Tbs. flour
kosher salt & fresh ground pepper, to taste
1/4 tsp. fresh ground nutmeg
1 liter milk, heated

DIRECTIONS
First, melt the butter in a saucepan and then add the flour, salt and pepper, and stir to combine. This will initially lump up and get very thick, but continue stirring until smooth, for approximately 3-4 minutes. Then, add the nutmeg, the heated milk and again stir, to combine and continue until the sauce thickens a bit. Simmer for about 20 minutes on very low heat.

LASAGNE ASSEMBLY
Preheat oven to 400º
You will need one box of lasagne noodles. I use Barilla Oven-Ready Lasagne, because they are truly, oven-ready. There is no need to pre-boil them and that to me, is a huge convenience and it doesn’t hurt that they are also quite light.

Next, butter an ovenproof dish, add a small amount of the béchamel sauce to sparsely cover the bottom of the dish. Then, place the lasagne noodles across the dish, then béchamel, then sauce and finally the grated parmesan. Repeat the above process, until you have 4-5 layers. When you put the last layer of noodles on top, cover that well with the béchamel and “stain” it with a few sparse dollops of the sauce, a light layer of parmesan cheese and a few dollops of butter.

Finally, cover and bake for about 20 minutes, remove the cover and continue baking for another 20 minutes or until bubbly and slightly browned on the edges. Then, remove from the oven and let sit for 10-15 minutes, before slicing and plating. Serve with a green salad and some crusty bread.

NOTES
This can be made well ahead of time. I actually try to do the sauce one or two days in advance, it enhances the sauce and makes assembly day much easier and less time consuming. You can assemble the day before serving and keep refrigerated. However, it also freezes beautifully. I have actually frozen it assembled and I have frozen both the bolognese and the béchamel sauces, separately. I was a bit worried about how the béchamel would survive the freezing, but it came out great. When it thawed, it did separate, but I just reheated it, whisked it vigorously and honestly, I couldn’t tell the difference.




Baked Ziti with Spicy Tomato Sausage Sauce

Soon the weather will start to cool down and the lighter, summer inspired meals will give way to comfort food classics. This recipe is simple, a definite crowd pleaser and will quickly become your “go to” recipe for a quick, one dish meal. Serve with a lemony arugula salad and grilled ciabatta bread…simple, tasty and oh so satisfying.

INGREDIENTS
1 lb. hot Italian sausage
1 onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2-26 oz. cans San Marzano marinara sauce or any good quality marinara
6 Tbs. basil pesto
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 lb. penne or ziti
1/2 lb. mozzarella cheese, 1″ dice or shredded
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
6 oz. bag baby spinach

DIRECTIONS
Preheat a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the sausage, after squeezing from the casings. Break up the meat and brown, for about 10-15 minutes. Add the onion and saute until softened, about 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, then add the marinara and reduce heat to medium. Simmer until sauce thickens a bit, about 10 minutes. Stir in the pesto, salt and pepper. Take off the heat and add the spinach leaves and set aside.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in boiling, salted water for about 10 minutes. Drain well.
Preheat oven to 375*. Grease a 13×9 inch baking dish and spread a thin layer of sauce in the pan.

Combine the cooked pasta, diced cheese, 1/3 cup of Parmesan to the marinara and mix well. Spoon into the prepared pan and sprinkle the remaining parmesan cheese on top.

Bake for about 30 minutes or until bubbly and the cheese is a little browned. Serve with a simple salad and a good crusty bread.

NOTES
If your crew is not too happy with spicy, you can definitely just use a sweet Italian sausage or a combination. The choice is yours. Also, regarding the mozzarella, feel free to just shred it (instead of cubing it) or, for convenience, use the store bought shredded. Trust me, don’t stress over little details, the combination of ingredients is wonderful and no need to go crazy over the details, it will still be delicious.




Marinara Pizza Sauce

Use for the topping on grilled pizza, as a simple sauce over pasta or as the sauce for chicken parmesan. This freezes quite well, with no loss in texture or flavor.

INGREDIENTS
3 cloves garlic, sliced, not chopped
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
pinch crushed red pepper
28 oz. can San Marzano whole tomatoes
fresh basil branches, 4-6

DIRECTIONS
First, sauté garlic briefly, at medium heat in the olive oil. Then, add the crushed red pepper (more if you really like a kick) to the garlic oil and simmer for a minute or two.

Next, break the tomatoes up with a wooden spoon or by squeezing with clean hands. Alternatively, if you have an immersion blender, that works quite well also. Add the crushed tomatoes to the garlic oil and then add the basil branches as well. The basil will infuse the sauce and then, when finished simmering, take the branches out.

Simmer for about 10-15 minutes or longer if you have the time.